Friday 24 July 2015

Warlord Titan No.58 - Bone Garland, Legio Mortis.

Certificate Number: 58
Titan Name: Bone Garland
Pattern: Mars-Alpha Warlord Titan
Head Unit: Mars-Alpha
Primary Armament: 2x Belicosa Volcano Cannons, carapace paired Warlord Laser Blasters
Princeps: Ruvek Kalamoss.
Titan Legio: Legio Mortis Demi Legio: Bloodmire
Battle Maniple composition: Warlord (58); Warhound (2762)

Owner: TOC's co-founder Drake Seta
Location: Buckinghamshire, UK
Comments: Hi all here is my Warlord Titan Bone Garland. 

Photos:
WORK IN PROGRESS PHOTOS:
Brand new no 00058 in a great box. 

Luckily I have a baby, so a Baby bath (3 loads full) will help clean this Battle Engine. I love the detail and the user guide. 

On a Towel to dry. 

All the components to make the Torso and legs. Can't wait to get started now!

04/08/2015:

An incredible kit. Totally awesome. 

The detail and ease of assembly should be commended. 

Legs and feet:
I wanted to go for a stepping forward look. You need to plan this carefully as too little a gap makes it look like the Titan is edging forward. Too far apart and its lunging!!

I decided to have the tip of the trailing foot (closest one in the picture) to be inline with the back of the main foot structure on the leading foot (far in picture). I manually walked with these and it seemed the perfect stepping distance as I pretended to walk it around the lounge floor. 
The Titan is heading left in the image above. 




Drawing an imaginable line to illustrate the gap between the two inside toe tips, I would say it is about 2-3 cm. the gap makes the model seem more dynamic (and manly :) 

After setting the left leg completely and up to the knee on the right leg, I dry aligned the thigh of the right leg and waist. To make it fit with the left leg completely. I then glued the knee in the right place then tweeked it until it brought the waist level. I then boosted the right knee with superglue to assist the fixing of the JB Weld still keeping and checking the waist is level. Then when the legs are set, using a flat surface I glued the waist and hips together and ensured they were level. 

Then I let the beautiful Engine dry for a day. 


Really enjoying this model now :) it has taken me 7 hours to get to this point.


05/08/2015:

The Twin Reaver Las Blasters have now been assembled. 



As if on cue, the Brass pins have arrived. Anyone got any cutting tips?



A lot of Volcano power! Looks just like the Volcano cannon which gets dropped from the crane in Space Marine the game.



The arm mounts for the primary weapons have been added. 



And so has the main shoulder frames. 

Spent 12 hours in total asssmbly time now. 

06/08/15 - 

Hi all. Not too much progress yesterday as had family stuff to do. 
The Volcano cannon looks like a sci fi handgun :) Zap Zap :)

I have spent a couple of hours Greenstuffing areas which need have a noticeable gap. 

The Volcano cannons have a couple of large ones on each. 






Ran out of black. So far 18 hours assembly time.

So I was unable to track down Leadbelcher spray so used an entire pot cut with x-20 to airbrush Seething released. 

After going all over with Leadbelcher, I Zenithal highlighted with Iron Hand Steel (FW paint - pretty much 50:50 Leadbelcher and Ironbreaker). 


Happy with the colour so far. Will be hitting it with some inks soon to dull / shade. 

Sooner these are glued on the better for support. Updated as of 16/08/2015

Just thought I'd update you on the status of my Warlord Titan Seething Released.
I have received the head now (FW updated their system and my address went in wrong) after it was accidentally delivered to the wrong address. Now I can start work on it. 


After the base of chaos black I painted Martian Iron earth in places to simulate rust under the surface. 

This was then all sprayed with Corvus Black. 

I have been doing internal base colours (Tamiya deck colour) and I have been using Vallejo brass to do the metallic trims.

I also have started washing the main structure. To do this I made a mix of Agrax Earthshade, Nuln oil, Klear (now pledge) and a little bit of water. It was a whole pot of each of the citadel washes about a quarter of a paint pot of water and about 2 cap to cupfuls of Klear.



Klear is a fantastic medium to use to help you create decent, forgiving and controllable washes. It helps draw the pigments of the wash into the gaps and recesses and leaves the main surface relatively untainted. 


You can see the wash effect just above. 

Updated as of 29/08/2015

Hello all and welcome to our 100th Post! Cake!!!!

Today features an Update of my own Engine of Legio Mortis: Bone Garland. Bone Garland has been on the back burner for a while now due to a Pre-Knight Errant Nathaniel Garro (and family problems!)

Anyway. Have a look at how he currently stands.

Update 19/02/2016:



Up to date



Forge World's impressive Titan Transfers are applied. The Legio Mortis Shoulder split Icons require more cutting than I imagined but I am pleased with the result.


Transfer day


As I wanted black shields to go with the big red pads, this would be a problem as one of the shield decals is mostly black. I decided to enter a cut and merge process to get them looking how I wanted. I will gloss theses eventually so should not still see the decal edges.

I also really wanted to use the emblazoned decals (even though I do personally prefer the solid white ones.

The transfers are a way from being complete, but you should get a jist of what they will look like.


Pads on to party.


There will be two head options. one Mars-Alpha (black) and one Mars-Beta (white). Hopefully the one I like the most will represent Bone Garland and the other I will use to represent another Engine in the Bloodmire War Maniple.


Looking forward to his first walk, but still a way to go

Update 31/05/2016:

Drake Seta has been working hard on Bone Garland and was brave enough to start the oil and buff off stage.

He assembled the Mars Beta Head unit (glued the lid down as he does not feel like doing internal detail at this stage).

Drake sprayed the piece with Klear polish (shown wet above) and left to dry. He did two cloats of this.

 He then created this muddy oil mix with Indigo, Burnt umber and Raw seinna, as well as a nice dose of white spirits (ends up like thick gravy). Nice and easy to mix together, and you should know when you are happy with it.

 Cover the piece (note this is my first ever attempt at this). Dry with a hair drier until the piece is semi dry (waxy).

 Dry

Then using a flat piece of cotton (old bed linen etc) carefully rub and buff off the the oil to leave a grime and dirt effect just around the rivets (note the Klear protects the paint and transfers).

 leaves dirt and grime in the recesses.

 Drake sprayed the piece with Klear polish and left to dry. He did two cloats of this.

 Covered in oil paint,

Drake sprayed the piece with Klear polish (shown dry above) and left to dry. He did two cloats of this.

 Scary over white!!!

 Here is how the majestic Bone garland look as of now.

Such an effective way of creating detail and definition. It also gives the impression of a War Machine which has walked for decades,




 The white buffed up nicely.



Bone Garland is well on his way to being complete now.

Titan Owners Club.

Drake Seta

12 comments:

  1. I am thinking that the Princeps in the Mars Alpha head does not look Legio Mortis (Great Crusade era) enough. In Mechanicum I am pretty sure there was a Mortis chap with a Skull head as a Princeps.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Drake, first off this engine is incredible. Really an inspiration! Second, on the princeps...I've had the same thoughts. There is a limited edition FW princeps majoris model who looks ahem, a little rougher - he's missing a hand and his face has obviously been badly burnt on the same side as his missing hand. I've managed to get my hands on one through eBay to see how he might be used. The problem is he's standing. We shall see. I've also thought about trying to replace the princeps head with a skull to match the fluff - maybe a chaplain head?

      One other thing that surprises me after trolling the net is so few people have done amniotic tank conversions! I'm going to be looking into that as well!

      Anyway, lovely job on Bone Garland. This really is one of my favorite engines!

      Delete
  2. Hi drake, yeah there was it was camulos the senior princess of Morris, they wore skull masks if memory serves me right. I was thinking of the same for my princeps, in that he doesn't look quite right for the tiger eyes.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yup I know what you mean. I have purchased a set of skull helmets from the web and will be trying one of them. Still waiting for the Titan head to arrive though!

      Delete
  3. Drake, were your legs set at different lug lines as per 30mm Madness legs instruction post? Front leg more bent than back leg to allow the stretch back? I love the slight raised back foot, I will shamelessly steal that...

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. They are at different positions than his guide I believe. I JB welded the hell out of the toes so hopefully they won't go anywhere!
      I will update this post soon so you can peak at it then if you want.

      Delete
  4. It's absolutely incredible! What a fantastic effort!

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  5. What brand was the clear and the paste you used?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Clear? If you mean the Clear Red it was Forge World’s Angron Red. If you mean Klear, then that was Pledge floor polish as seen in a pic above.

      Delete
    2. Awesome thank you. I hope you don't mind I may borrow some of alot of your colour scheme. I love the legio Mortis and haven't decided what legio I'm going to do but I love the red being in the forefront instead of the black. I have some changes but you have put the idea of using the oil paints and some of the other painting ideas in my head and I'm excited to do it myself.

      Delete
  6. I'm wanting to do this on my Warhound. Did you airbrush on the Klear or can it be hand-painted on, and did you have to mix it with anything or can it go on just straight out of the bottle? Also, were the paints you used for the greasy/oily effect just standard oil-based paints? Lastly, your transfers look great! What exactly do you use to apply them and what is your process for doing so?

    ReplyDelete