Tutorial- How To Paint Chevrons

This article will go over the technique used to paint chevrons. This is a fairly easy technique to master, just  make sure you take your time and be careful when making your lines and you will have very clean chevrons.

The most important tool for making the perfect chevrons is hobbyist tape. This is 6mm, but it comes in many other widths. This will give you super clean lines and usually won't pull your primer off.

The first strip is by far the most important. This is where you will base all of your other lines off of, so make sure its just right. It is not uncommon to have to re-lay the strip multiple times. Take extra time to make sure you get it right.

A center mark has been placed for reference to show where the tip of the primary chevron is. A a second strip of tape has been added to add line thickness.

A second strip has been placed on the other side so that it makes a square with the other tape, highlighted in the picture above. Helpful note: if the piece you are working on is symmetrical, use reference points, such as rivets to properly place your lines.

After placing the second strip you can start to see if your lines are actually symmetrical. This will ensure that all other lines you place will also be even and symmetrical.

There was a bit of excess tape on the model. If you place your tape carefully, you will not have to worry about removing excess tape. If you do have to, make sure to cut the tape gently, so as not to score the model.

To ensure each stripe is uniformly thick, adding the appropriate amount of tiny strips of tape inbetween your taped off sections is much less risky then just eyeballing it.

This is what it looks like when all sections are taped off.

After removing the spacer tape strips, apply strips in the middle of each line so paint doesn't get through the cracks and gaps.

While not essential, it is highly recommended airbrushing your paint on for doing chevrons. the airbrush is a lot smoother, goes on thinner, and does not get paint inside the creases of tape.

Here is the Armor plate with airbrush paint applied. Make sure to wait extra time to ensure the paint is fully dry before CAREFULLY peeling away the tape.

As you can see, some of the black paint has chipped away while peeling off the tape. This usually doesn't happen, and is most likely due to improper resin washing or from priming in the cold, New England weather. Either way, it is not a problem. These exposed areas are perfect spots to make rust, or armor damage in a seemingly natural position. These can also be easily touched up with the airbrush, or by hand if you are going for a clean look.

Apply your trim paint and you are basically all set. You now know how to make crisp, clean chevrons!

Adeptus Titanicus- Legio Mortis Transfers Previewed

Warhammer Community gave us a preview regarding the Legio Mortis transfer sheets coming for your micro Titans soon enough.  The following was provided by their site:

Customising your tiny Titans is about to get a lot easier, thanks to a new transfer sheet from Forge World.

Transfers are the unsung heroes of many a project, saving hours of time and hassle freehanding those final details onto your models, and Forge World has a huge range available. Painstakingly illustrated, they make adding that little extra bit of awesome to your models simple.

Complimenting the transfer sheets found in the Adeptus Titanicus kitsthemselves, the Legio Mortis transfer sheet is ideal for fans of this most sinister Titan Legion, replete with iconographs, honorifics and embellishments.

The Legio Mortis transfer sheet will be available to pre-order soon – we reckon if you start painting a new Warlord Titan now, you’ll have it ready for transfers by the time they’re out! You can buy your god-machine online today.

What do you think Princeps?  Are you excited for this development?  Another key thing to notice is in the bottom left corner: Malinax transfers!

Warlord Carapace Apocalypse Launchers Build

Today, we cover the build of the Warlord's carapace mounted Apocalypse Missile Launchers.  If you've followed our build thus far, you'll now have the final parts you need to have a battle-ready Warlord Titan.  This tutorial assumes that you've already cleaned the release agent from the parts, as well as removed the gates and flash.  

Materials Needed:

• Super glue
• JB Weld (optional)
• Q-tips (to wipe away excess glue on areas that will be visible)

Step 1: Use a hobby knife to score the contact points between the launcher body and the exhaust, then use super glue to bond the parts together.

Step 2: Score the circular mounting point where the body of the launcher will meet its mounting bracket (not shown) and then use super glue or JB Weld to bond the parts.  Have in mind the elevation you want the launchers to be at as this step is what determines the angle of the launchers.

Step 3: Use super glue to attach the pistons to each side of the launchers.  Leave the missile heads separate until after painting, then use super glue to put them in place once finished.

Mars Warhound No.1504 - Defensor Fidei, Legio Ignatum

 Certificate Number: 1504 
Titan Name: Defensor Fidei
Pattern: Mars Pattern
Primary Armament: Mega bolter + plasma blastgun
 Princeps: Princeps Carlsen
Titan Legio: Legio Ignatum

Owner: Jordi Inglés C.
Location: Catalonia, Spain
Comments: Actually destroyed by a titan Chaos “baby-engine” (my daughter) ;(

Photos:

WORK IN PROGRESS PHOTOS:

 Despite having fallen by the hand of Chaos, I can still see Defensor Fidei still has a strong Machine Spirit and must be rebuilt to continue its service to Legio Ignatum.

The proper anointment has been spread upon the pistons and the Machine God has been praised. Defensor Fidei walks again!

COMPLETED PHOTOS:

Fast as a Wasp.

Defensor Fidei is now ready to continue defending Hydra Cordatus! 

Warlord Titan Carapace Apocalypse Missile Launchers Unboxing

Today we unbox one of the Warlord's carapace weapon: the Apocalypse Missile Launchers.  Truthfully, this is probably the most simple kits to open up and get working on for the Warlord.

Each launcher comes bubble wrapped for protection.  They are actually GIANT chunks of resin.

There aren't many parts, and the missile heads are each a separate piece so that you can create different looks.

After cleaning and gate removal.

There wasn't a lot of flash on this kit and it was really easy to remove.  However, mould lines were a bit more prevalent in this kit than I would have expected for it being so new.  This weapon option for the Warlord is certainly easy to build and goes together quickly, which we'll cover in the build tutorial in a few days.

Warlord Titan No.781 - Malus Incarnatus, Legio Mortis

Certificate Number: 781

Titan Name: Malus Incarnatus

Pattern: Mars-Alpha

Head Unit: TBD

Primary Armament: TBD

Princeps: Unknown

Titan Legio: Legio Mortis 

Battle Maniple Composition: None

Owner: Peter O

Location: Derbyshire, United Kingdom

Comments: First Titan, weapon and head will be bought soon (11/10/2018).

Photos:

Work in Progress:

Titan Owners Club

Arioch Power Claw Build

When Shadow was working on his Titan, all sorts of articles were created to show you how the build was accomplished.  It seems somewhere in the datastacks, a servitor failed to call up the build article for the Arioch Power Claw and Apocalypse Missile Launchers.  Today, we cover the build of the Arioch Power Claw.  This tutorial assumes that you've already cleaned the release agent from the parts, as well as removed the gates and flash.  

Materials Needed:

• Super glue
• JB Weld
• Q-tips (to wipe away excess JB Weld on areas that will be visible)
• Hand drill or Dremel tool with drill bits
• Drill
• Pinning material

Step 1: Use super glue to attach the ammo hoppers and barrel assemblies on the wrist-mounted Vulcan Megabolter.

Step 2: Score the armor panels and lower portion of the hand, then use super glue to put them together.  Use super glue to put the hand stabilizer together.  Let these parts fully cure.

Step 3: Attach the hands upper armor to the hand itself.  There are grooves built into the kit, so no scoring of the parts is needed.  Once these parts have cured, place the stabilizer on what will be the "bottom" of the hand.  Note that this position changes based on if the hand is meant to be the left or the right.

Step 4: Use JB weld to set the join between the elbow and wrist parts.  Check the pose you wish before gluing these parts as this is where the Titan will turn the weapon upon its wrist.  No turn in the wrist was used for this particular build, so the parts are built "in line" with one another.  While those two parts cure, attach the stabilizer power cables to the stabilizer and hand using super glue.  Then glue the thumb joint to the appropriate notch for the thumb.  It will be in the slot opposite to the stabilizer's location.

Step 5: Use pins to strengthen the next parts, as the weight of the arm fully be placed on the next joint.  Place the wrist and hand together using JB weld.  Then build the fingers, using super glue.  Using pins for the joints will keep them from breaking mid-game.  Finally, add the pistons for each finger.

We hope you've enjoyed this tutorial and find it useful.