Tutorial - How To Apply Weathering

This article will show you how to perform realistic weathering on your God Machines.

 We will start with an already painted part. This is the one from the last tutorial.

For this tutorial, you will need a decently thick brush, such as the small base brush, your favorite rust paint, and a rag. 

 First, get a good glob of paint on the end of your brush and line the edges inside of the trim. Do this in sections so the paint wont dry. 

 Next, immediately wipe the rust paint downwards while applying slight pressure. This will cause the rust paint to streak in a realistic fashion. It may look too dark after your first wiping, but you can continue to wipe more to your liking. You can wipe pretty hard before you start to scrape the paint, so don't be afraid to rub a little harder. Make sure you get the rust inside the corners of the edges, otherwise the weathering will not look realistic. You can always brighten up the colors by drybrushing the original color on top of the rust paint after it dries later on if you are dissatisfied with the darkness.. 

Continue repeating the previous 2 steps, section by section. Wide open spaces can be blotted and then wiped to add uniformity.

Half way done with the sectional painting and wiping. You may want to try wiping the brush off after dipping it in the rust paint until there is a bit more paint than if you were drybrushing edges and lightly run the tips of the bristles down parts of the piece to create darker streaks. If you don't like what you see, you can just wipe it off and start again until you have a satisfactory looking streak.

The other half is finished and more streaks have been applied using the method above. 

 Vents get very dirty. Don't be afraid to give these areas a little extra wear. Consider adding Nuln Oil to parts of the rust to add depth and different color.

 Chipped paint? No Problem!. use some Typhus Corrosion to cover up the chip. it adds another color to the model and has a great corroded texture.

Here is another chipped spot taken care of.

A drop of Nuln Oil on each rivet and a slight wash on parts of the trim adds to the weathered look and gives more depth of color to the silver trim. A little bit of rust paint in certain areas also looks well.

Here is the finished product  This technique can be done on any color to the relatively same effect.

The trick with other colors than white is to not wipe over the entire model. Now you know how to make realistic weathering effects on your models.

Tutorial- How To Paint Chevrons

This article will go over the technique used to paint chevrons. This is a fairly easy technique to master, just  make sure you take your time and be careful when making your lines and you will have very clean chevrons.

The most important tool for making the perfect chevrons is hobbyist tape. This is 6mm, but it comes in many other widths. This will give you super clean lines and usually won't pull your primer off.

The first strip is by far the most important. This is where you will base all of your other lines off of, so make sure its just right. It is not uncommon to have to re-lay the strip multiple times. Take extra time to make sure you get it right.

A center mark has been placed for reference to show where the tip of the primary chevron is. A a second strip of tape has been added to add line thickness.

A second strip has been placed on the other side so that it makes a square with the other tape, highlighted in the picture above. Helpful note: if the piece you are working on is symmetrical, use reference points, such as rivets to properly place your lines.

After placing the second strip you can start to see if your lines are actually symmetrical. This will ensure that all other lines you place will also be even and symmetrical.

There was a bit of excess tape on the model. If you place your tape carefully, you will not have to worry about removing excess tape. If you do have to, make sure to cut the tape gently, so as not to score the model.

To ensure each stripe is uniformly thick, adding the appropriate amount of tiny strips of tape inbetween your taped off sections is much less risky then just eyeballing it.

This is what it looks like when all sections are taped off.

After removing the spacer tape strips, apply strips in the middle of each line so paint doesn't get through the cracks and gaps.

While not essential, it is highly recommended airbrushing your paint on for doing chevrons. the airbrush is a lot smoother, goes on thinner, and does not get paint inside the creases of tape.

Here is the Armor plate with airbrush paint applied. Make sure to wait extra time to ensure the paint is fully dry before CAREFULLY peeling away the tape.

As you can see, some of the black paint has chipped away while peeling off the tape. This usually doesn't happen, and is most likely due to improper resin washing or from priming in the cold, New England weather. Either way, it is not a problem. These exposed areas are perfect spots to make rust, or armor damage in a seemingly natural position. These can also be easily touched up with the airbrush, or by hand if you are going for a clean look.

Apply your trim paint and you are basically all set. You now know how to make crisp, clean chevrons!

Legio Phasmatis Painting Guide Part II

Nathanuel sent on Part II of his Legio Phasmatis painting guide, this time covering the green marble work that adorns that lovely God-Engines of the Legio.

Thank you for sending these on to be shared with the TOC.

Tutorial: Green marble armour plating:

0. What you will need: 

1. Undercoat spray Rustoleum brown, then a second light coat of Citadel Chaos Black

2. Airbrush: aerocolor opaque white airbrush with zenithal highlights.

3. Add tonal variations: lightly airbrush aerocolor fleshtone, then gradually add white to airbrush pot. Add various layers of lighter color, letting underneath show through slightly. 

4. Watermarking: mix 2 drops aerocolor flesh tone + 2 drops brown ink, add ~1 teaspoon water. Sponge paint (with a long slender sponge piece) using tweezers to make marks that are roughly aligned (following a natural diagonal). With a still-wet wash brush, gradually (as the water is drying, but before it drys completely) blend edges to keep some, but not all, watermark edges. 

5. Draw (using 0.3mm lead mechanical pencil) very light cracks 

Use fine detail brush to paint Gryphonne Sepia over pencil lines (keep it very, very thin), forming some new lines and varying the line thickness. With the same brush, paint brown ink in small spots, at intersections, and in various small lines. Again with the same brush, paint white in very, very thin lines and small dots, sometimes following the watermark edges.

6. Gloss coat with airbrush: vallejo gloss varnish + thinner medium.

7. Oil paint wash using thinned oil paint (Winsor and Newton 'Winsor green' + GAMSOL pure odorless mineral spirits), following the techniques in FW MC vII.

8. Paint gold banding. 

Excellent painting guide and very useful. - TOC

Legio Phasmatis Painting Guide

Nathanuel was kind enough to send along a painting guide for his beautiful Warlord Titan Ira Deorum so that the secrets of this wonderful and hauntingly good paint scheme could be enjoyed by all.  The below is what he's offered up to us:

"Hi Drake,

The second note set is for the green armor plating mural painting. Again, there are no secrets, just requires patience. This technique I developed on the fly. It's actually quite simple, but the effect works extremely well to give subtle features to the armor plates.

Tutorial: Green armor plating mural:

0. What you will need: 

1. Undercoat spray Rustoleum brown, then a second light coat of citadel Chaos Black.

2. Spray citadel Caliban Green spray paint in light coats, leaving some black to show through.

3. Add tonal variations: airbrush zenithal highlights with aerocolor flesh tint.

4. Oil painting: Mix oil paints (Winsor and Newton) on palette graded between winsor green and yellow ochre, thinned with GAMSOL pure odorless mineral spirits. Using detail brush, paint basic geometric shapes to rough-out simple design. Keep the edges of shapes as sharp as possible at this point, but work the oil paint to mix colors and blend on the armor plates while painting. The oil paint dries very slowly, allowing plenty of time to blend and adjust. Note, it can also be wiped clean (using a cloth rag) if you don't like the results at first attempt.

5. Seal oil paint: Once dried for 24 hours, spray coat matte finish 'Army Painter anti-shine'

6. Add decals as accents (sealing with citadel 'ardcoat light spray before and after). Light spray Army Painter matte finish again, then wash decals with citadel thraka green. Use several light coats until decals blend in with background sufficiently.

7. Add detailed line work: Using fine detail brush, paint outlines and shapes to create definition, highlight, and shadow. To create shadow, use citadel caliban green (straight form the pot). To create highlights, use citadel graveyard earth. Using the same brush, add Aerocolor 'flesh tint' ink for small lettering.

8. Gloss coat with airbrush: vallejo gloss varnish + thinner medium.

9. Oil paint wash using thinned oil paint (Winsor and Newton 'Winsor green' + GAMSOL pure odorless mineral spirits), following the techniques in FW MC vII.

10. Paint gold banding.

Thank you so much for showing this to us! - TOC

Reaver Titan No. 1855 - Bellator Ferum, Legio Tempestus

Certificate Number: 1855
Titan Name: 'Bellator ferum' (Warrior of Iron)
Class: Reaver Class Battle Titan
Pattern: Mars Pattern Reaver Titan
Primary Armament: Battle Titan laser blaster (right arm), Power fist (left arm), and carapace Apocalypse Missile Launcher
Princeps: #CLASSIFIED#
Titan Legio: Legio Tempestus
Battle Maniple Composition:

7^th Maniple (Fortis)

Warlord "Osores Periciosa" (489); Warlord "Custodii Tempestas" (163); Reaver "Bellator Ferrum" (1855); Reaver "Obscura Caleo" (2460); Reaver (3053)

 

15^th Maniple (Precept)

Warlord "Fulgar Deus" (1120); Warbringer "Nox Terrorem" (227); Warhound "Inundatione Lacrimae" (4870); Warhound "Crebri Pluvia" (5197)

Owner: Col.Hertford (Col.hertford.blog)
Location: Hertfordshire, UK
Comments: This Titan is currently under construction.  Unlike the previous Warhound which is from the Legio Gryphonicus, this Reaver, and my soon to follow Warlord will be from Legio Tempestus. The reasoning is that:
1. They were one of the three oldest Titan legions, the Triad Ferrum Morgulus.
2. They fought on both sides of the Heresy
3. The background is good
4. They still exist in 40k, and finally,
5. They just look damn good in blue urban camo and black and white checks {agreed T.O.C}

My plan is to have removable banners and flags to display both Loyalist and Traitor allegiance.  I have two reaver apocalypse launchers too, so I'm thinking a large Aquila on one, and the eye of Horus on the other.

Photos:

Here's a little taster of what is to come.

A Cracking looking fist!

Absolutely awesome.

Great masking.

I love it, Tempestus will march!

After sending in pictures of my new Reavers knee plates, the TOC asked me to create a painting guide for my method of paint Legio Tempestus {Can you blame me!}, The Storm Lords.  This guide was written with an Air Brush in mind however, it should be possible to paint with a brush also.

The paints I used are from the Vallejo Model Air range; US Blue Grey, UK Mediterra Blue an Blue Angels. These spray well from the bottle and gunk less than other paints I have used.1.       Undercoat black (On resin models I use a spray paint for its better adhesion properties).  Test the paint has adhered by scratching in corners.  If it comes off, you need to strip the paint and wash again.

2.       Using an air brush, lay down one or two coats of US Blue Grey and allow to dry.

3.       Cut irregular, angular shapes of low tack masking tape an place these over the model in the desired pattern.  (I use Tamiya masking tape)

4.       Using and air brush, spray one or two coats of UK Mediterra Blue.  Note: don't remove the masking tape yet!

5.       Repeat step 3 above.

6.       Using and air brush, spray one or two coats of Blue Angels.  As soon as this is touch dry, remove the two layers of masking tape and you will be left with a very garish, blue/grey dazzle camouflage pattern.

Next time, on to weathering and washing.  Please comment below with any ideas, questions or suggestions.Happy wargaming, Col.Hertford

UPDATE PICTURES:

A very stubborn head unit for paint.

This material allowed the head unit to be properly cleaned and painted.

The stubborn power fist

The head unit looks really good after all that hard work

Nearing completion.

Engine up to date as of 4/3/16

UPDATE PICTURES:



Very good weathering on the shoulder pad, and the number is a subtle nod to his certificate number.





Very good looking internals, and the Princeps looks imposing.



The internals are very much taking shape.

Engine up to date as of 6/5/16

Looking forward to more soon!!!

Titan Owners Club.